The Ugly Side of the Beauty Industry

So you need a new mascara…

You run to the local drugstore or big cosmetics store or department store beauty counter. You look for the product that will work the best because, well, no one wants mascara flaked under her eyes by noon!

But most of us don’t ever consider the ingredients in our cosmetic products.

I for one always thought that if something was for sale, it must be safe. I mean, it wouldn’t otherwise be for sale… right? 

Wrong.


Beauty and personal care products are a primary source of our chemical exposure.

On the average day, the average woman wears hundreds of chemicals. These chemicals are found in her face wash, face lotion, shampoo, conditioner, body lotion, deodorant, perfume, mascara, eye shadow, foundation… and so the list goes on.

Remember: the skin is your body’s largest organ and absorbs almost all of what is applied on it (consider that fact that there are transdermal medications). Topically applied products go straight to your bloodstream, whereas ingested chemicals are filtered by the liver and kidneys. You also inhale these chemicals (especially with scented products) and eat them (as with lip and oral care products).

Many of these chemicals have been directly or indirectly linked to hormone disruption, DNA damage, and even cancer. Even more concerning, the majority of the chemicals in use have never even been studied. More concerning STILL is that companies are able to keep some chemicals a secret as trade secrets. So we may not even know everything that is actually in a product!

Some countries have taken action to reduce the threat of these chemicals. For example, the European Union has banned or restricted over 1,400 harmful chemicals from being used in skincare and cosmetics. In contrast, the United States has banned or restricted only 30.

How is this possible?


The fact is: the beauty industry is almost completely unregulated.

The U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) is technically charged with overseeing cosmetics, fragrance, and personal care products, but its regulatory oversight is very limited:

  • No product or ingredient requires FDA approval before going to market (with the sole exception being color additives). So if a company wants to use the cheapest ingredient even though it may cause reproductive harm…
  • No product or ingredient requires safety testing. The FDA only “advises” manufacturers to test products and ingredients for safety before putting them on the market. So if a company doesn’t want to spend the money or manpower on product testing…
  • The FDA cannot recall an unsafe product in the same way it can do so with unsafe food. Though it can “request” that a product be recalled, company selling the product must voluntarily issue the recall. So if a company doesn’t want to pull their product from the shelves and have a PR scandal (not to mention potential costly lawsuits) on their hands…

How is it possible that this government agency has such little control?

The FDA itself states:

“Cosmetic companies have a legal responsibility for the safety of their products and ingredients.”

That is, the legal responsibility is the hands of the companies, not the FDA.

An organization called the Personal Care Products Council (PCPC) created and funds the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR), which tests ingredients for safety and submits the data to the FDA on behalf of the cosmetic companies. The PCPC defines itself as:

“The leading national trade association for the cosmetic and personal care products industry… for more than 600 member companies, we are the voice on scientific, legal, regulatory, legislative and international issues for the personal care product industry. We are a leading and trusted source of information for and about the industry and a vocal advocate for consumer safety.”

But here’s the thing: The PCPC is basically operated by the beauty industry big-wigs. Its members include over 600 beauty companies (including the biggest names in the industry — multibillion-dollar businesses like Avon, L’Oreal, Estee Lauder, Johnson and Johnson, and Procter & Gamle) and the largest chemical manufacturers who supply the ingredients. And it doesn’t take an advanced degree in economics to know that what (most) companies care about most is their bottom line. So what can we assume the PCPC is primarily concerned with? Public health and consumer safety? Certainly not… After all, it’s all about the Benjamins, baby (or so says Puff Daddy).

The FDA has even scolded the beauty industry leaders for putting profit above consumer safety.

In 2014, FDA Deputy Commissioner Michael Taylor wrote a public letter to the PCPC and ICMAD (Independent Cosmetic Manufacturers and Distributors, another trade group) reprimanding the groups for attempting to further limit the power of the FDA by calling for fewer regulations. Taylor expressed his “profound disappointment” in industry proposals that “would actually reduce FDA’s current ability to take action against dangerous cosmetics.”

According to the letter, these groups had proposed new legislation that would (the following is quoted verbatim from the actual letter):

  • Have Congress declare a wide range of potentially harmful chemicals “safe” for use in cosmetics without a credible scientific basis, shifting the burden to FDA to prove them unsafe through a lengthy rulemaking;
  • Require FDA to affirmatively find other cosmetic ingredients “safe” even if we knew that they posed real and substantial risks to consumers;
  • Require FDA to undergo a lengthy, unnecessarily burdensome process before declaring an ingredient unsafe, delaying actions to protect consumers by removing unsafe chemicals from cosmetics;
  • Virtually eliminate FDA’s ability to verify that cosmetic companies have substantiated the safety of their products;
  • Undercut FDA’s ability to enforce quality control rules for the safe manufacturing of cosmetics;
  • Prevent FDA from receiving reports of most illnesses and injuries from improperly manufactured or otherwise dangerous cosmetics, as well adding a provision that would severely undermine FDA’s ability to use the reporting system for its fundamental purpose: to detect signals of harm from cosmetics;
  • Fail to give FDA the authority to require cosmetic companies to register annually with FDA, reducing the agency’s ability to know who is making cosmetic products for sale to our citizens and what those products are;
  • And finally, having severely restricted FDA’s authority to keep unsafe cosmetics off the market, the industry draft would entirely eliminate States’ ability to oversee any aspect of the safety of cosmetics.

Clearly, we need to be educated consumers and protect ourselves.

This is why I started this blog — to help educate others — and am such a big fan of DIY skincare. After all, it’s easy to avoid unhealthy chemicals when you are making your own products!

But most people just aren’t DIYers, and even for those of us who are, there are just some things that we can’t make by hand.

Luckily, there are many resources now available to help you purchase safer products.

The Environmental Working Group’s Skin Deep Database ranks cosmetic and skincare products by safety from 0 (virtually no hazard) to 10 (high hazard). They also have an app which is convenient to use when shopping.

Think Dirty is another similar app that helps you find safe skincare and beauty products.

My personal favorite natural beauty brands:

100 percent pure logo 100% PURE creates 100% natural and 100% cruelty-free products that are free of artificial colors, artificial fragrances, synthetic chemical preservatives and other toxins.
juice beauty logo Juice Beauty offers organic skin care and organic beauty products that are clinically validated to show transformative results.
beautycounter logo Beautycounter creates safe and effective skin care and cosmetics for women and their families. They meticulously screen our ingredients for safety.

 

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  1. Yes good info that all should know. However, no mention of cruelty free? Did I miss it or was there no mention in this article about the horrific animal testing due to these chemical ingredients. Needless – demand cruelty free.

  2. Cleaning up my skincare is the final piece of my transition to a natural lifestyle. Thank you so much. It’s information like this that makes me realize just how important it is.

  3. Thank you for exposing the horrible truth. Do you know of any companies that make all natural skin care and cosmetic products? There is so much out there on the market and you can just never be sure of what is all-natural and what isn’t. Any feedback is much appreciated!

  4. That’s great info! You should check out Lush Cosmetics… it’s literally the best ethical company I know of. Fair trade, equality in the work place, no toxins, no chemicals

  5. so is there any animal cruelty involved or beautycenter is animal cruelty free. Also are the products organic?

  6. Copied from Beautycounter’s site: “DO YOU TEST PRODUCTS ON ANIMALS? No. Beautycounter does not test any of our products on animals, nor do we ask others to do so. We do not have our own manufacturing facility; we contract with several independent formulators. These formulators also do not conduct animal testing.”

  7. Oh Lush is really not that great… they use parabens in many of their products, which are known endocrine disruptions (i.e. mess with your hormones and have been suspected to cause cancer!!). They also use synthetic fragrance is some products which is just a mysterious chemical cocktail. I’d look at the ingredients of your favorite products to be sure they don’t have these and if they do, find a safer alternative!

  8. Hi! I’m just transitioning into the whole organic and natural lifestyle, however I have noticed that most natural or organic products are too expensive. Does anyone know any products that are affordable?

    Thanks!

  9. See tip #1: 7 Ways to Save Money on Healthy, Real Food

    These natural products (beauty, I mean) are really no more expensive than those conventional products found at department stores or beauty stores like Sephora. And when you shop the sales, they’re no more expensive than drugstore brands.

    And most of all, it’s really about what’s important to you!! If your health is a priority, it’s easier to spend a little more.

  10. I was wondering if you or any readers have any experience with Philosophy: “purity made simple” face wash. I have heard some good things and one of my friends who is into essential oils uses it, but I have also heard that it contains irritants and can be harmful to skin. I just wondered if you knew anything about it or would recommend it?

  11. I can’t believe how unregulated the market for skin care and makeup products is. I’d like to start shopping at the Beautycounter and Juice Beauty but it’s a little expensive for a college student! Do you have an coupon codes or other cheaper stores you would recommend?

  12. Hi, Sarah. I’d also take a look at 100% Pure (also mentioned as one of my favorites in this post). They ALWAYS have sales (in fact, they just had a “stock up” sale where you saved 25% on orders of $100+ which is easy to spend if you’re buying a bunch of products to revamp your routine). Plus, they have an awesome return policy and free shipping both ways (so if you don’t like a product, you can return it for free).

  13. Well done! It’s, of course, my passion and what I have predicated my skincare business on. It is why I use Organics and support NYR Organics who was the first in their field 30 years ago and follow the strictest internationally respected UK Soil Associations guidelines and wins awards year after year. They list every single ingredient in every product, which is not required in the US. I am outraged by US companies that mislead consumers at the cost of their health. It’s disgusting! I will be reposting your education as I often do, but this one is by far my favorite. The numbers actually exceed 1400 today, but that is a number that makes an impact for purposes of alerting the public. Keep up the great writing and Thank You!

  14. Hi Nadya,

    I was just wondering what your opinion was on lush products, to my knowledge they’re fairly natural products and handmade. Ive been using ultrabland as a cleanser by them.

    I’ll be awaiting to hear your thoughts!

  15. Hey Catalina,

    Lush seems to be more natural since it contains very few ingredients, but unfortunately most of their products contains parabens. I looked up the Ultrabland it has Propylparaben in it. Parabens are known endocrine disruptors (they mess up your hormones) and have been linked to breast cancer. So in conclusion 🙂 I don’t recommend Lush.

  16. Thank you Nadia for your response my apologies in misspelling your name!

    I have started using face oils going through your handy chart to see which oils I needed but unfortunately my skin got very very dry and is flaking all over (I’ve exfoliated to make sure that wasn’t it)

    I’m a little concerned, do you have any thoughts as to what I could be doing wrong ?

    Ps just found your blog and I am in love!

  17. Thank you so much for this post, Nadia! Very informative and made me really decide on taking the first step in transitioning to a healthier and natural lifestyle. More power to you! 🙂

  18. Hi Nadia,

    Yes 20 drops of carrier oil for 1 drop of EO, I have dry skin tried Jojoba as a carrier then switched to Almond and Tamanu mix as the carrier but still my skin is very dry.

  19. These are all really important notes. I come from another country that might not even have regulations for personal care products–and a lot of my people want to be white or have perfect skin or whatever. I’m bothered with it but I don’t want to be the “holier-than-thou” person who tells them to quit it and look for an alternative.

    This is why I’ve switched to oils, and even then I’m still nit-picky. Cold-pressed, 100% pure, ethically sourced, things like that. I’ve ditched makeup altogether except one vegan lip color and mascara.

    The beauty industry isn’t beautiful at all, if you think about it.

  20. Please, i really need your help! I have a combination and sensetive skin, i got some bumps on my forehead and also some pimples (not a lot), and i started to use almond oil, and i see that there’re some new bumps (3) and one little pimple on my nose, what that mean? that the oil is comedonic for my skin, or that it cleans him ? and which oil do you think is best for my skin? I also tried cocount oil, and i use it in the morning, and it’s feel like it’s what cause the bumps on my forehead. which oil is best for sensetive and combination skin?? I’ll really really appriciate if you will answer me!

  21. A lot of skin-lightening products contain some some really unhealthy chemicals!! Looks like the ladies of your country need you to help spread the word about safer products (and being confident with the skin they’re in!) 🙂 It’s less about being “holier-than-thou” and more about education – most people just have no clue about just how dangerous some of these chemicals are! Once they do, they can make up their own minds to find safer alternatives or not!

  22. Hi Nadia,

    Any clue as to why the oils could be making my skin dry ? I am using 1 drop of eo per 20 drops of carrier. Started with jojoba then switched to a tamanu and almost oil mix but still nothing.

    Thank you for your help!

    Catalina

  23. I’ve never heard of them and couldn’t find them online! So I have none LOL. They’re also not in Think Dirty or EWG’s Skin Deep Database. If you have some products, best to look the ingredients in check them in either of those 2.

  24. Hi Nadia, so happy that I found your website. My daughter and I have been looking for natural ways to provide our skincare with natural products. I make some of our skincare products but it is very difficult to travel with them because they don’t have a “commercial label”. Recently, I tried “Juice Beauty” on my vacation trip to the tropics. I got sick and found out that due to the “citric juices” used in the Juice Beauty line, you cannot use them if you are going to be out in the sun. So, they are best suited for “cold weather” use rather than out in the sunny, warm weather.

    Also, I didn’t see your answer to a questioned posed by

    “Melanie on September 24, 2016 at 3:50 am
    Hi Nadia – Do you know anything about JAFRA Cosmetics? What are your thoughts?”

    I happen to love Royal Jelly. Jafra has a new line of products called the “Royal Jelly Longevity” line that has given me fabulous results. However, trying to find the ingredients of these products is like looking for a needle in a haystack. Can you help with this? [The entire line, cleanser, serums, sunscreen (especially), eye cream (especially), longevity balm, etc.] I want to be sure that these products are safe.

    Also, Perlier has a line of Royal Jelly skincare. Are their products safe?

  25. Hi Nadia

    I was curious if you can help me with some products. My gym uses J.R. Watkins for their shampoo, conditioner, body wash, and lotions that they provide in the locker rooms (all grapefruit scented). I’m having a hard time deciphering some of the ingredients and am wondering if you were familiar with them and thought they were safe for someone trying to go chemical free? Thanks!